Whomst among us isn’t cocktailing our skin-care products these days? Sure, it’s a popular practice, but there’s a right way to do it. We spoke to the pros for the lowdown on getting your combos right. Skin-care routines are all about two things: your physical needs and personal preferences. Some take a minimalist approach, limiting their stash to three or four products.
Then there are the skin maximalists, who employ an entire cupboard of jams, jellies, creams, and serums twice a day for the glowing skin they crave. Whichever approach you choose, one thing is certain: these days, folks are far more aware of the ingredients in skin-care products than ever before.
It’s a development you can thank social media for, as Wassim Taktouk, MBBS, a London-based board-certified dermatologist tells Allure. “Social media has allowed consumers’ knowledge of skin-care ingredients to rocket. Patients now come in to see me and are more aware of the power of ingredients,” he shares.
“They’ll ask me about niacinamide and ceramides, whereas previously, I would be the one telling them first.” And now that people hip to what these ingredients really do, they’re looking for ways to combine them to create an optimal skin-care routine through a practice called skin-care cocktailing.
What is skin-care cocktailing?
Unlike a delicious drink, the ingredients in your skin-care cocktail should not be mixed before application. That can disturb the ingredients and may even cause irritation, defeating the whole purpose of the practice.
Instead, “skin-care cocktailing is the process of layering and/or combining multiple products in your routine to target various concerns,” says Los Angeles-based aesthetician Shani Darden. It gives each person the opportunity to customize their regimen in a way that works best for their skin.
“Cocktailing allows the consumer to have the extra benefits of using multiple products rather than just using one,” cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson tells Allure. It’s both bespoke and practical.
Once you start layering, as a rule of thumb, you should be applying each product in textural order. “Start with [toners] or serums and finish off with the oiliest or most heavily-textured products on top,” says Dr. Taktouk.
The Best Ingredients Worth Combining
Like rice and beans or chocolate and peanut butter, there are skin-care ingredients that just go together. “I’m a big fan of layering products with active ingredients that complement each other,” shares Nina Desai, MD, a Manhattan Beach, California-based, board-certified dermatologist.
“For example, brightening products with ingredients like alpha arbutin or tranexamic acid layers really well with products that have exfoliating ingredients like glycolic acid.”
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania-based board-certified dermatologist Lindsey Zubritsk, MD, says her favorite ingredient combos include layering antioxidant ingredients such as vitamin C with sunscreen. This technique increases protection against oxidative stress and UV exposure.
She also recommends layering retinoids with moisturizers for additional hydration as retinol can tend to dry out your skin, as well as niacinamide with hyaluronic acid to moisturize and hydrate the skin. Despite what our experts recommend, do always consult with your doctor about the product combinations that would work best for your skin.
Ingredients You Should Avoid Combining
Just as there are ingredients that pair well together, there are also some that don’t play so nicely with each other. “I don’t recommend layering strong active ingredients because it can lead to irritation, such as combining a retinol with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs),” warns Dr. Desai.
“I find the combination can be too drying and irritating to the skin.” Also, beware of using benzoyl peroxide with other actives in your leave-on products like moisturizers or serums. Desai says those types of ingredients rarely work well together.
A general rule to take into consideration is to always use soothing ingredients with sensitizing (you know, the kinds that make your face all tingly) ones. “For example, using retinol with a calming face oil will alleviate some of the dryness and irritation retinol can cause,” says Ziad Halub, a product formulator.
He also warns to avoid using two different products containing the same active ingredients due to the potential risk of overuse, compromising the skin barrier, and causing sensitization. Cosmetic chemist Ginger King advises reaching for a moisturizer or serum with a lot of hyaluronic acid or some kind of calming ingredient like licorice extract if you’re using resurfacing actives like retinol. This way, you can avoid any dryness or irritation.
Don’t Overdo It
Growing up, your mama probably told you, “too much of something is good for nothing,” and the same applies to skin care. Skin-care actives are powerful, OK? So they should be used with respect and in the case of certain ingredients, that means sparingly.
“Layering too many active ingredients like exfoliating acids and retinoids can damage our skin’s moisture barrier when overdone, making it prone to redness and irritation,” Robinson explains.
If you find yourself with any form of irritation, consider falling back on all chemical exfoliants. “Focus your routine on hydrating ingredients before adding back any aggressive actives,” Dr. Zubritsk suggests. “I recommend a rich, creamy moisturizer with ceramides — it helps to restore and strengthen the natural moisture barrier to relieve skin.”
It’s also important to space out your product use if you’re dealing with active ingredients. “I always recommend alternating nights with active treatment products,” Darden shares. For example, if you’re using a retinol treatment and an AHA/BHA peel, “alternate nights with those to get the most from each treatment.”
Cocktailing with a Skin Condition
If you have been diagnosed with skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, or eczema, it is important to tread lightly with your routine. “Those who deal with irritation or sensitivity have to be very careful when using actives,” Darden warns. “It’s not that you can’t ever use them, you just may not be able to use them as much as others can.
I highly advise adding any new active products into the routine very slowly and one at a time to allow skin time to acclimate.”
At the end of the day, you don’t want your skin-care routine to make your skin feel worse. That would be a waste of time and money, no? So it’s super important for you to consult a professional if you know you have a skin condition and you want to get the most out of your cocktail.
“These skin types already suffer from a damaged skin barrier and may be further damaged if the wrong ingredients are mixed and matched,” Dr. Zubritsk shares. “If you have any concerns, a dermatologist is able to help tailor your skin-care routine to your unique needs.”
Yep, your dermatologist is your BFF — absolutely speak to them before you decide to delve into the world of cocktailing. “Less is more with these conditions, and I would not advise cocktailing unless your professional recommends something very gentle and supportive,” says New York City and Dallas-based aesthetician Joanna Czech.
Skin-Care Cocktailing Examples
Each skin routine and concern differs from person to person, but there are a few ingredients that are beneficial across the board. “Essential ingredients include adequate sunscreen protection (broad-spectrum SPF 30 or more) and hydration (hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and/or ceramides),” Robinson tells Allure.
Below, we’ve pinpointed seven skin issues and ingredients to look for to address them when you’re shopping for all your cocktail ingredients.
Issue: Dehydrated skin
Ingredients to look for: Hyaluronic acid, phospholipids, linoleic acid, glycerin, ceramides, jojoba oil, humectants, PHAs, and AHAs.
Issue: Fine lines and wrinkles
Ingredients to look for: Retinol, vitamin C, glutathione, ceramides, peptides, SPF, and exfoliating AHAs, BHAs, or PHAs.
Issue: Oily-combination and blemish-prone skin
Ingredients to look for: Hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide, bakuchiol, SPF, and exfoliating acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid.
Issue: Dry skin
Ingredients to look for: Rosehip oil, squalane, snail gel, fatty acids, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, SPF 30, glycerin, and PHAs.
Issue: Hyperpigmentation
Ingredients to look for: Retinol, vitamin C, licorice extract, kojic acid, arbutin, niacinamide, mandelic acid, tranexamic acid and SPF 30.
Issue: Dullness
Ingredients to look for: Vitamin C, vitamin E, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, caffeine, green tea extract, and exfoliating acids (lactic, glycolic, and salicylic).
Issue: Sensitivity and redness
Ingredients to look for: Centella asiatica, prebiotics, aloe vera, PHAs, ceramides, azelaic acid, and niacinamide.