They just may be the secret to amazing-looking skin.
Growth factors are one of those often-buzzed about ingredients that are on the tip of everyone’s tongue—and on the packaging of many bottles—but still have some mystery surrounding them. What are they, exactly, and where do they come from? More importantly, what can they actually do for your skin? “Growth factors are naturally-occuring substances that regulate various cellular processes, including growth, proliferation, and differentiation. They are crucial for tissue development, wound healing, and maintaining the overall health and function of cells,” explains Robyn Gmyrek, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. (It also bears mentioning that they can be derived from either human cells or plants.) “When applied topically, growth factor serums may help support collagen production, improve skin elasticity, enhance the skin’s natural repair processes, and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They can also contribute to hydration and overall skin rejuvenation,” Gmyrek explains. Long story short, they’re a great anti-aging ingredient, targeting a variety of the things that can make us look older than we are. Their other big boon: Unlike other anti-aging ingredients (retinoids, we’re looking at you), growth factors are typically very well-tolerated and unlikely to cause irritation.
A multi-tasking, youth-boosting ingredient that won’t wreak havoc on your skin? Yes, please. However, it is important to note that not all growth factor serums are created equal, Gmyrek points out, and that specific benefits can depend on the overall formulation of the product as well as the particular growth factors being used. So to make your skincare shopping easier, we rounded up some of the best options out there.
Best Overall: Dr. Diamond’s Metacine Instafacial Collection
Dr. Jason Diamond is the plastic surgeon to some of the biggest stars out there; the Kardashians and Chrissy Teigen are only a few of his elite patients. He’s well-known for his Diamond InstaFacial, which uses PRP (platelet-rich plasma) derived from your blood along with microneedling and laser. Consider this the at-home version of that in-office treatment, but no blood drawing or devices required. This two-step system consists of a plasma (more of a gel-like, lightweight serum) which contains bioidentical human growth factors that’s meant to be layered under an emulsion. More of a cream, this contains a time-released retinoid plus peptides. The results? Smoother, firmer, more radiant skin. Byrdie’s associate editorial director, commerce, Jill Di Donato is a super-fan, and swears by the combination treatment for smoothing out texture issues and delivering cushiony skin. “My skin literally drinks it up, that’s how well it absorbs. I’ve been using it daily for six weeks and my skin is more firm and bouncy.”
Runner-Up, Best Overall: Skin Medica TNS Advanced+ Serum
This cult-classic certainly isn’t the new kid on the block, but it’s a long beloved staple for a reason; in fact, it was one of the first products to put topical growth factors on the map. It’s often-recommended by dermatologists, Gmyrek included. “This serum is well-regarded for its combination of growth factors, antioxidants, and peptides. It aims to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone,” she says.
Best with Retinol: Perricone MD Growth Factor Firming Lifting Serum
A growth factor that helps promote collagen production and elasticity is further enhanced by the addition of retinol in this formula. The latter helps do the same thing, although it also helps to improve exfoliation on the surface of the skin, giving you benefits at every level. Also noteworthy: The addition of an eggshell membrane (yes, from an egg) that works to bolster the skin barrier to help keep moisture locked in.
Best K-Beauty: Maskad Anti-Aging Serum
There are not one, not two, but three different types of growth factors to be found in this Korean-made serum. There’s EGF, KGF, and BGF, all of which work slightly differently and in different layers of the skin but have a synergistic effect when it comes to leaving your complexion glowier and more hydrated, as well as smoother and plumper, too.
Best Budget: The Inkey List 15% Vitamin C and EGF Brightening Serum
As a general rule of thumb, growth factor serums aren’t cheap, making this one all the more noteworthy. It has a 1% concentration of an epidermal growth factor (or EGF) along with 15% of ascorbyl glucoside, a form of vitamin C. While it’s not as intense as l-ascorbic acid, it’s still a great antioxidant and choice for brightening skin, not to mention is much less likely to cause any irritation or stinging than the stronger stuff.
Best for Sensitive Skin: Neocutis Bio Serum Firm Rejuvenating Growth Factor and Peptide Treatment
Human growth factors are paired with a variety of other hard-hitting ingredients in this serum, namely things such as hydrating hyaluronic acid, moisture-infusing glycerin, and anti-aging peptides. It’s another one of Gmyrek’s recommendations: “Known for its proprietary growth factor blend, this serum is designed to support collagen production and improve the overall texture and elasticity of the skin,” she says.
Best Peptide-Alternative: Dr. Babor EGF Growth Factor Concentrate
Rather than containing actual growth factors, this instead relies on biomimetic peptides that work by stimulating the growth factors naturally found in your skin. Okay, so it’s not quite as ideal as the real thing, but the formula is a great pick for those who are squeamish about using human-derived growth factors, as the serum is completely vegan. It’s also slightly less expensive than many others, and is great for helping to both firm and smooth the skin.
Best Hydrating: Epi.Logic Master Plan Collagen Renew Growth Factor Serum
All growth factor serums can help with skin hydration to a certain extent, but this one really focuses on the task. Along with the growth factor, there’s also hyaluronic acid in the mix, a humectant that attracts water to and traps it in the skin. A snow mushroom also helps to lock in moisture, while shitake mushroom both plumps and brightens.
Best Plant-Based: BioEffect EGF Plumping and Firming Serum
For those seeking plant-derived growth factors, this pick can’t be beat. It relies on a growth factor that comes from barley, which helps both boost collagen production and hydration, too. To that point, it’s been clinically-proven to improve skin density and thickness, as well as reduce wrinkles. Also nice: It contains just seven ingredients total and you only need to use a few drops for a complete application.
Best with Exomes: Elevai Enfinity Rejuvenating Serum
Growth factors have been around for awhile, but exosomes in skincare are poised to be the new hot trend. Think of them kind of like a cousin to growth factors; they’re nanoparticles released by cells that contain within them their own lipids, proteins, growth factors and more. They work by communicating between cells, and are largely responsible for helping to stimulate and mimic the body’s natural healing response, which is what makes them so ideal when it comes to skin regeneration. Exosomes are the star of the show here, alongside growth factors, peptides, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid. The end result? A serum that is ideal for overall skin rejuvenation.