Got dry skin? This derm-approved ingredient can help with that.
Add this to your skin-care vocabulary: Tremella fuciformis, also known as snow mushroom. It sounds like something you’d stumble upon in a mystical forest, and yes, it is a fungus, but it looks more like a white gelatinous flower than a mushroom. It’s commonly used in traditional sweet Chinese foods (like snow fungus soup) and has also been a staple ingredient in Asian medicine and skin care for thousands of years.
Now, it’s popping up as an active ingredient in skin-care products in Western beauty, and it’s even been labeled as the next hyaluronic acid for its hydrating properties.
What exactly is snow mushroom?
This ingredient’s skin-care origins go as far back as the imperial Tang dynasty for creating a youthful, supple appearance, according to cosmetic chemist Ginger King. Modern science can explain why: King says silver ear mushrooms, yet another name for Tremella fuciformis, have the ability to boost skin hydration when ingested.
“Due to the gelatinous structure and high amount of polysaccharide, it has been used in skin care to provide hydration, as well,” she tells Allure.
What are the benefits of snow mushroom?
Board-certified dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD, the director of dermatologic surgery at Metropolitan Hospital in New York City, says the fungus acts similarly to that of hydration powerhouse hyaluronic acid by pulling moisture to the skin. Hyaluronic acid can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, so finding an all-natural match for its hydrating power is pretty major.
And snow mushroom has an extra edge. “The particles are smaller than hyaluronic acid, so it penetrates the skin more easily,” says Dr. Engelman. She cautions, however, that she wants to see more targeted studies on the ingredient’s skin-care properties before she hails it as a magic mushroom for moisture.
With that being said, board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD, who is based in New York City, notes that this mushroom — like most mushrooms, in general — is rich in fatty acids, which also help with moisture retention while stabilizing your skin barrier. “Mushrooms are also rich in vitamins A, [also known as retinol], C, and D and have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties,” she says.
In addition to its moisturizing abilities, Dr. King says mushrooms are becoming more popular in skin care because they have anti-inflammatory properties to calm and comfort your skin. They’re also a source of kojic acid, an ingredient most commonly known for addressing dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
“Kojic acid is often used as a skin lightener and is found in many skin-care topicals that claim to help with age spots and skin discoloration,” says Dr. King. “Kojic acid is thought to help inhibit melanin production on the surface of treated skin.”
So if you’re looking to address any dark spots and other discoloration concerns, this ingredient will definitely provide a helping hand.
What type of products contain snow mushrooms?
Though both dermatologists would like to see more research done around snow mushroom skin-care products, this fungus sure looks promising. One of the benefits is that it’s gentle on the skin, so most skin types (even the most sensitive) can enjoy it.
Eminence Snow Mushroom Moisture Cloud Eye Cream
Well People Revitalizing Dew Snow Mushroom Eye Gel-Cream
Debra Jaliman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, loves that the Eminence Snow Mushroom Moisture Cloud Eye Cream is packed with nourishing ingredients, including hydrating snow mushroom, that even sensitive skin types can use. “This product contains glycerin and shea butter so it’s extremely moisturizing,” she says. “It also contains aloe to soothe the sensitive eye area.”
Trying to spend less than $20? Dr. Jaliman says to look no further than Well People’s Revitalizing Dew Snow Mushroom Eye Gel-Cream. This soothing formula’s star ingredient is snow mushroom extract to plump and hydrate skin for a smoother look to fine lines. Meanwhile, niacinamide also makes an appearance in this formula to brighten dark circles.
Thayers Milky Hydrating Milky Toner
Herbivore Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum
If you’re looking for a gentle, hydrating toner, Jodie LoGerfo, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based at Orentreich Medical Group in New York City, says the Thayers Milky Hydrating Milky Toner is right up your ally. This milky toner gets its cushioning texture from its fusion of snow mushroom and hyaluronic acid, which also works overtime to intensely hydrate skin. Dr. LoGerfo also loves that this toner is alcohol-free, so it won’t dry out your skin like other intensive toners can.
Tremella mushroom makes a major appearance in Herbivore’s Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum to plump skin and replenish water levels, but that’s not the only impressive ingredient in this gel-like formula. Strawberry extract lends a pink tint and treats your skin with antioxidants like vitamin C, which are known to moisturize skin, brighten your complexion, and guard against damaging free radicals.
Damdam Snow Mushroom Pore Cleanser
Superegg Tonal Scenery Reparative Serum
For an effective cleanse that’s still gentle on easily-irritated skin, whip out the Damdam Snow Mushroom Pore Cleanser. As its name suggests, the main ingredient is hydrating snow mushroom, but this bar cleanser deserves a spot in your skin-care routine for the addition of salt, a known exfoliator that gently polishes the skin while providing antimicrobial properties.
We truly mean it when we say the Superegg Tonal Scenery Reparative Serum is basically dewy skin in a bottle. On top of snow mushroom, this elixir also contains brightening niacinamide for a glowing complexion and skin-firming peptides to improve elasticity.
Humanrace Humidifying Cream
Botanics Pure Botanicals Snow Mushroom Concentrated Serum
It seems like even Pharrell, who’s known for his flawless skin, is snow mushroom. This hydrating ingredient can also be found in products from his own skin-care line, Humanrace. The brand’s Humidifying Cream is packed with the brightening properties of the beloved ancient mushroom, alongside oil-balancing niacinamide, anti-inflammatory Centella asiatica (also known as cica), and more botanically-derived ingredients.
Sure, this ingredient can be found in a plethora of face creams, serums, and other skin-care products, but Dr. King’s favorite is the Botanics Pure Botanicals Snow Mushroom Concentrated Serum, a drugstore find that will provide intensive hydration on a budget.
Origins Mega-Mushroom Soothing Hydra-Mist
Tata Harper Hydrating Floral Mask
Good Light Moon Glow Milky Toning Lotion
Is your skin still feeling a tad dry? Then refresh it throughout the day with the Origins Mega-Mushroom Soothing Hydra-Mist. This mushroom-infused mist contains two types of fungus (reishi and snow) for moisture, as well as hydrating hyaluronic acid for good measure.
For dry skin that’s just begging for a hydrating moment, slather on Tata Harper’s Hydrating Floral Mask. This mask is packed with a quenching blend of snow mushroom, hyaluronic acid, kangaroo paw flower, red spider flower, and candlestick flower. The flowers aren’t just a cute botanical touch: Each of them is known as a natural source of ellagic and ferulic acids, two antioxidants that brighten your complexion, even skin tone, and minimize the look of redness.
If you’re in need of hydration and exfoliation, then allow us to introduce you to Good Light’s Moon Glow Milky Toning Lotion. This toner uses a combination of snow mushroom and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) to gently remove dirt, oil, and makeup from your skin without drying it out.
If your skin is feeling particularly dry or irritated, we recommend supercharging your moisturizing routine by adding in snow mushroom and another hydrating ingredient, like hyaluronic acid or glycerin to seal the deal.