Hint: sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen.
Retinoids are a revered skincare ingredient, however, there is a ton of misinformation surrounding it. For instance, you may have heard that retinoids should not be used during the summer if you want to avoid irritation. While this is a prevalent myth, it’s simply that, a myth. The truth of the matter is that retinol can and should be used during the summer (or any time of year for that matter). However, the trick is using it correctly so as not to experience any adverse side effects. To learn more, we tapped two dermatologists for their expert advice on how to use retinol when spending fun in the sun.
What Are Retinoids?
Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A that are converted to retinoic acid to be used in skincare products. Often, you’ll see retinoids and retinol used interchangeably. This is because retinoid is the umbrella term for both prescription retinoids and over-the-counter retinol.
Retinoids vs Retinol
Retinoids improve the skin’s texture by promoting cell turnover and minimizing wrinkles by stimulating collagen under the skin. While retinoids are available over the counter, the most potent ones are prescription-only (like tretinoin).
On the other hand, retinol refers to the retinoids found in over-the-counter products. While still effective, retinol is less potent than prescription options because the formula has a lower concentration of retinoic acid.
How to Use
The good news: Retinoids can absolutely be used daily during the summertime. “The frequency of applying retinol or retinoid in the summer does not necessarily need to be altered unless there is a significant sensitivity to retinoids used,” says Dr. Erum Ilyas, board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group.
However, keep in mind that when using retinoids, start out slow. “With prescription strength, I usually recommend using one pea-size amount once and week then working up from there,” Dr. Farhang shares. “With retinol, there are a few tricks such as starting off once every few nights, waiting 30 minutes after washing your face before applying it, mixing it with your moisturizer, and applying moisturizer right afterward.” Some more tips, below:
Take Your Skin Type and Concern Into Consideration
Dr. Sheila Farhang, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Avant Dermatology, says it’s important to consider your skin type and concerns (like melasma) and the other ingredients in your skincare routine when using retinol during the summer.
“Skin types that do need to be careful when retinol application in the summer are those with melasma and who may be using other ingredients that exfoliate the skin such as AHAs, hydroquinone, and kojic acid because red, irritated skin, if not properly sun protected, can worsen existing melasma,” she says. The same goes for darker skin tones which may be more prone to hyperpigmentation. And if you experience dryness, peeling, or exfoliation, Dr. Ilyas recommends decreasing the frequency of use to prevent photosensitivity.
Wear With Sunscreen
Retinol makes skin sensitive to the sun, so always wear it with SPF. Or you could even apply a sunscreen with retinol as an ingredient (yes, it exists). “I would suggest leveling up on the SPF — that means using at least SPF 30 on the face and reapplying every few hours,” says Dr. Farhang. “If you are out and about sweating or doing activities, opt for a water-resistant sunscreen.”
Additionally, Dr. Ilyas stresses that you should be applying sunscreen even if you aren’t going outside. “A daily skincare routine should include at baseline a sunscreen every morning, even when not planning to be outdoors, to avoid running a risk of even unplanned excess sun exposure,” the dermatologist says. And if you do go outside, she recommends wearing a hat for additional protection.
Incorporate Into Your P.M. Routine
To promote effectiveness, Dr. Farhang says to use your retinoid product at night and points out that higher concentrations of vitamin A, which are found in prescription formulas, are most likely to cause irritation. While the goal is to work your way up to using the retinoid every night, if your skin still doesn’t tolerate it after a few months, Dr. Farhang suggests trying another product.
How to Treat Retinoid Irritation
If you do experience any irritation like redness or peeling, stop using retinoids immediately. “Take a break from retinoids for about a week. If excess redness or peeling is noted, the use of a low potency steroid topically, such as hydrocortisone 0.5% cream, for a few days can help reduce the inflammatory response,” Dr. Ilyas says. “Use aloe vera gel at night to give the skin an opportunity to restore and repair itself overnight.”