As if waxing wasn’t enough of an ordeal, the looming possibility of ingrown hairs really seals the deal. The red, angry bumps are not only painful, but also leave us trying to cover up the baby smooth skin we sought to achieve. Ingrowns occur when the hair fails to break the skin’s surface as it grows or pushes back into the skin once it emerges. Areas with thicker follicles or curlier hair, like mens facial hair, underarms, or the bikini line, are usually the most susceptible—but that doesn’t exclude other parts of the face or body.
Ingrown hairs can pop up anywhere that was waxed or even with shaving, as the sharper blunted edges of regrowth may make it easier for hair to pierce skin and grow back into it. So, we consulted the experts on how to deal with the irritating situation.Ahead, eight dermatologist-approved ways to prevent ingrown hairs from forming and how to treat them if they do.
Causes of Ingrown Hairs
Ingrown hairs are caused by hairs that fail to break the surface of the skin and, as a result, can’t grow in the right direction. According to board-certified dermatologist Onyeka Obioha, MD, “ingrown hair is hair that curls inward and grows downward under the skin instead of outward from the hair follicle.”
“Picture this,” says board-certified dermatologist Alicia Zalka, MD. “You’re camping. You unzip a sleeping bag and get in. The night gets cold so you zip up the sleeping bag to the top. Next morning, you try to get out, but the zipper is stuck. You wiggle around and try to get out of the small opening in the sleeping bag. That’s what happens to the skin surface of a hair follicle (the sleeping bag) and an ingrown hair (you).”
Continuing with the camping anecdote, Zalka explains: “The waxing process opens up the skin and hair is removed. But by the time the hair grows back, the skin has healed over it (sleeping bag zips up) and the hair gets stuck. The stuck hair may become inflamed (you are thrashing about trying to get out of the sleeping bag) and cause symptoms.”
How to Prevent Ingrown HairsPull In the Right Direction
The goal in waxing is to remove the entire hair from the follicle, but it may break either above or below the skin’s surface when being tugged. This can happen if there isn’t enough “pull” or when too much wax is applied to an area (like trying to remove a large section all at once). The trick is to get the hair out so that you can see the bulb at the base with more deliberate pulls. “Wax in the direction the hair grows,” asserts Obioha. You’ll have better chances of getting the entire hair out versus breaking it. When waxing at home, be sure to follow directions very carefully prepping skin, applying product, and removing it.
Find a Seasoned Tech
If you do choose to pay for your service, don’t go to just anybody that’s licensed. We know that the bumps can happen despite the greatest intentions. However, those who are crafty have the best chance of not breaking the hair and avoiding other side effects. For example, some techs prefer hard wax for at least part of the bikini area, which is wonderful for coarse hair, as it “shrink wraps” hair so that it can be easily lifted. This type of discernment and tailored experience is what separates an expert tech from the rest.
If you know you’re prone to ingrown hairs, be sure to inform the tech before starting.
Exfoliate Before and After
Lightly exfoliating before waxing with an ayate cloth or another mild exfoliator helps remove dead skin cells, allowing for a better and easier service. Zalka recommends using exfoliating cleansers three to four days per week that contain salicylic acid (like Neutrogena Deep Clean Cream Cleanser, $5) or glycolic acid (like Surface Deep Skin Wash, $28). “But be mindful of the skin becoming sensitive right before the day of the wax,” she cautions. “Hold this the day or two prior to your visit for extra caution if you have delicate skin.”
Also gently exfoliate a day after the wax if the area isn’t red, inflamed, or irritated. When the hair does start coming back, the exfoliation may help it point up and grow in the right direction—opposite of skin. “Keep the skin soft and gently exfoliated (keep the sleeping bag zipper from getting stuck),” suggests Zalka. “When the hair grows back and it meets up with smooth skin that is not too dry or plugged up it can grow back freely with no blockage.” Obioha notes that using body wash with lactic acid, as well as the aforementioned glycolic and salicylic acid, can help the hair to grow in the right direction.
Moisturize the Area
Proper skin hydration and moisture levels are beneficial across the board, but especially for recently waxed skin. Obioha recommends moisturizing the area with a barrier cream to reduce irritation and reinforce the skin’s barrier.Steer Clear of Tight Fitting Clothes After a ServiceAfter any type of body waxing you want the skin to be able to breathe, rather than be constricted. “Avoid tight clothing or compressive garments that can add to the problem (like a bear sitting on you in the sleeping bag as you’re trying to get out) until it is resolved,” says Zalka. Not only can tight clothes irritate freshly waxed areas, they can also damage hair follicles.2
Reach for Targeted Products
Many products are created to help fight and prevent ingrown hairs before they appear. With exfoliating and moisturizing ingredients, preventing ingrowns is much easier than tackling the redness and bumps later on. Try products like Bliss Bump Attendant Pads ($22) and Tend Skin Ingrown Hair Solution ($24). Apply the product 48 hours after removing the hair at a cadence of once per day, or according to the product’s directions.
Consider Topical Treatments
If you know you’re prone to developing ingrown hairs consistently, it may be time to consider prescription-strength treatments. “Apply a topical anti-inflammatory (hydrocortisone) to the area after waxing—over the counter (1% or 0.5%) or prescription strength,” says Obioha, who also suggests using topical retinoids to increase cellular turnover and help the hair follicle grow in the right direction.
Try Sugaring
An alternative to waxing is sugaring paste, which also lifts the entire hair. Unlike waxing, which removes hair in the opposite direction of hair growth, the paste removes it in the way that it grows. This is meant to put less strain on the hair so it’s less likely to break either above or below the skin.
What to Do If You Already Have an Ingrown
If you weren’t quick enough to thwart an ingrown before it developed, don’t fret. While you may still see a few bumps form, there are ways to remedy the irritation. “If ingrown hair becomes red and sensitive, switch to a benzoyl peroxide wash or glycolic acid toner,” says Zalka, who suggests allowing the hair to grow gradually and applying warm compresses. “Warm compresses [on] the area help reduce inflammation,” echoes Obioha. Most importantly: Fight the urge to pick!
Oils with moisturizing and hydrating properties will soften the skin and encourage the healing process. Opt for natural, plant-derived oils like jojoba that won’t further inflame the skin or cause any additional breakouts. For bumps with extra sensitivity or irritation, look for products that can soothe the skin. Aloe vera, green tea extract, or colloidal oatmeal are skin-calming powerhouses that also have anti-inflammatory properties to tame redness or swelling.
“See your waxing professional for help or see your dermatologist if a rash or larger ingrown hair (aka cyst or boil) occurs,” says Zalka. According to Obioha, a board-certified dermatologist can dislodge the ingrown hair if necessary but a topical and/or oral antibiotic may also be required depending on the severity. “If the problem becomes severe or recurrent, see your dermatologist and also consider laser hair removal if appropriate and affordable,” continues Zalka.