It’s a tale as old as time: First comes the acne, then comes the acne scarring to remind you of the blemish that once was. And while we may be sentimental at times, a lifelong reminder of a breakout isn’t exactly what we had in mind. Lasers and prescription treatments may be the ultimate power move against these lingerers, but serums can go a long way in improving the appearance of acne scars and fading hyperpigmentation to produce a more even tone overall.
“Serums are very effective and often superior to other formulas when it comes to treating acne scars,” explains board-certified dermatologist, Lauren Penzi. “Face serums are lightweight, liquid-like formulations that contain a high amount of active ingredients that target specific concerns like scars. Serums are able to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin where they are able to exert their beneficial effects.”
Board-certified cosmetic and medical dermatologist Blair Murphy-Rose adds, “More important than the vehicle is the ingredients in a formulation.” She explains, “Some serums will be more effective than others. And some serums will be more (and others less) effective than some gels or creams for example.”
When you’re having a look at the ingredient list, there are some keywords that you should look out for. “If you’re concerned about the color of your scars, look for ingredients that target hyperpigmentation, including niacinamide, vitamin C, kojic acid, and hydroquinone,” says Dr. Penzi. Vitamin C is a wonder for brightening skin, and it’ll do the same for scars.1 Niacinamide, kojic acid, licorice extract, and azelaic acid are also super brighteners, which can lift the deep color left behind. Using retinol and its derivatives will also work well on fading marks, but make sure with all of these that you’re extra diligent with your SPF. For cell turnover that’ll reveal bright, radiant skin go for alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic acid and salicylic acid, which is a beta-hydroxy acid used to fight acne and prevent further breakouts.
If you’re over acne and its frustrating after-effects, we’ve found the best serums for acne scars below.
01of 10SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense
A favorite of Dr. Murphy-Rose, this gentle serum contains kojic acid, tranexamic acid, HEPES, and niacinamide. “Many refer to the post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation of acne as ‘acne scars,'” she explains. “Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can respond well to topical skincare. Kojic acid, tranexamic acid, vitamin C and glycolic acid are some of my favorite skincare ingredients to treat and prevent hyperpigmentation. They work by interfering with melanin synthesis in the skin. Many of these ingredients are also antioxidants that prevent free radical environmental damage.”
02of 10Sunday Riley A+ High Dose Retinoid Serum
“To improve the texture of scars, consider serums with retinol that increase cell turnover and promote collagen synthesis,” advises Dr. Penzi. According to the brand, this Sunday Riley staple combines a 5% retinoid ester blend, 1% liposomal-encapsulated retinol blend, and 0.5% blue-green algae with natural, retinoid-alternative activity with encapsulated CoQ10 to improve the appearance of damaged skin.
03of 10The Ordinary 1% Retinol in Squalene
“The best topical ingredient to use is a vitamin A derivative-retinol or a prescription retinoid,” echoes Dr. Murphy-Rose. In this The Ordinary serum, retinol, and squalane buddy up to correct and perfect imbalances in skin tone while enhancing hydration to combat the dryness that often results from such potent actives.
04of 10Kiehl’s Dark Spot Correcting Serum
This is an easy serum to slot into your existing routine, but you’ll certainly know it’s there, as it uses peony and vitamin C meant to reduce dark spots and add life to dull skin.
05of 10Odacité Pa+G Hyperpigmentation Serum Concentrate
You need to get papaya onto your face rather than just in your smoothie bowl in order to see its brightening benefits. This formula promises to help slough away dead skin cells to even everything out and prevent dark spots, too.
06of 10Oskia Renaissance Brightlight Serum
Sometimes a skincare product comes into your life and you truly have to consider how you ever survived without it. This brightening serum is the perfect example of that. With an exfoliating formula to reveal healthy-looking skin, it also works on reducing acne scarring and discoloration, according to the brand.
07of 10Sunday Riley Good Genes
If we had only half of Sunday Riley’s serum’s multitasking abilities, our lives would be a whole lot easier. For now, we’ll just crush on the powerful formula of lactic acid, licorice, and lemongrass, which promises to tackle uneven skin tone that stems from acne (as well as sun and pollution damage). “AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid can help exfoliate the top layer of the skin, improving skin texture and reducing the appearance of scars,” adds Dr. Penzi.
08of 10The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
Niacinamide is such a gift for improving blemishes and reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation and any discoloration.1 Its brightening effects will encourage you to keep this in steady rotation, as your skin will be looking its best.
09of 10SkinCeuticals Retexturing Activator
This resurfacing serum means business with its patented exfoliating formula combined with kombucha and hyaluronic acid to fade hyperpigmentation and leave behind a radiant, hydrated complexion. Worth every penny of the hefty price tag.
10of 10skinbetter Alto Defense Serum
This antioxidant-forward formula packs a serious punch. A potent blend of superfood polyphenols and vitamins E and C neutralize the daily onslaught of free radicals while licorice extract brightens and improves skin tone.
If you’re ready to get over the final acne hurdle and improve scars and dark spots, these serums will steer you in the right direction. But be sure to keep expectations grounded in reality. “Acne scars will not fade overnight. It will likely take 3-6 months to see improvement,” says Dr. Penzi. “Multimodal approach using high-quality serums such as those listed above in conjunction with other treatments including peels and lasers will provide the best results.”