This gentle but powerful acid fights acne, redness, hyperpigmentation, and (so much) more.
If you’re a skin-care enthusiast, you’ve likely heard of — and experimented with — a handful of acids, be it glycolic, hyaluronic, or salicylic; however, azelaic acid is the latest one to take the skin-care world by storm.
Don’t just take it from us, though. La Jolla, California-based, board-certified dermatologist Azadeh Shirazi, MD, describes this buzzy acid as a “dermatologist-favorite,” a “jack-of-all-trades,” and “one of the most underrated skin-care ingredients.” Put simply, Dr. Shirazi tells Allure that azelaic acid works by inhibiting tyrosinase (a.k.a. the enzyme involved in pigment production) and, thereby, “reduces hyperpigmentation.”
Michele Green, MD, a New York City-based, board-certified dermatologist, echoes Dr. Shirazi’s sentiments. Both professionals also note azelaic acid’s antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, excellent for treating skin conditions like acne and rosacea, as it kills breakout-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation. This versatile acid, also considered a gentle exfoliant, stimulates cell turnover, as well. As such, Dr. Green tells Allure that azelaic acid “can help reduce the appearance of acne scars.”
You also need not worry too much about adjusting your entire skin-care routine to incorporate azelaic acid. Fortunately, both Dr. Green and Dr. Shirazi agree that azelaic acid is generally gentle enough and safe to use in combination with other ingredients like vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs, and retinoids. However, says Dr. Green, “If you have prescription-strength azelaic acid, Retin-A, or other topical creams, you should consult a dermatologist.” Similarly, although azelaic acid is safe for all skin types, Dr. Green advises those with sensitive skin to start using the ingredient “once a day, increasing the frequency to twice a day after several weeks.” And, if you experience any irritation, it’s best to consult your doctor before continuing.
Finally, azelaic acid can be found in over-the-counter products in all sorts of strengths, from as low as one percent to as high as 12 percent and even 15 percent. Per Dr. Shirazi, the highest concentration of azelaic acid available is 20 percent, which is prescription-strength. However, that’s not to say lower concentrations aren’t effective. According to Dr. Green, “skin-care products with a low concentration of azelaic acid can be beneficial when it comes to unclogging pores, preventing acne breakouts, and soothing skin inflammation.” These lower concentrations of azelaic acid are often combined with other active ingredients like AHAs and BHAs. Dr. Green explains that, in these combination formulas, “a lower concentration of azelaic acid may help prevent skin irritation.”
Below, we’ve rounded up some of the best azelaic acid creams, serums, and cleansers on the market, including some derm-approved picks.
SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment
Glytone Enhance Brightening Complex
Per Dr. Green, Skinceuticals’ Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment contains three percent azelaic acid (which helps unclog pores) plus a soothing botanical blend of cucumber, thyme, and olive leaf extracts.” Plus, she says, “its lightweight, oil-free, silicone-free, [and] non-comedogenic formula is suitable for acne-prone and sensitive skin.”
Dr. Shirazi tells Allure that Glytone’s Enhance Brightening Complex is an especially “great option for those with hyperpigmentation” since it combines 12 percent azelaic acid with three percent glycolic acid, a powerful chemical exfoliant. She also credits the cream with helping to “brighten skin tone and smooth skin texture.” Lastly, the dermatologist notes its “lightweight formula,” which is also non-comedogenic ( meaning it won’t clog your pores).
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster combines azelaic acid, exfoliating salicylic acid, and bonus ingredients like brightening licorice root extract and hydrating glycerin. Additionally, says Dr. Green, “Its cream-gel formula is lightweight and helps to exfoliate the skin for a smoother, more radiant, and youthful complexion.”
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension Brightening Cream is among the best azelaic acid creams on the market, and, better yet, it clocks in at under $28 for a three-ounce bottle. According to Dr. Green, the cream’s high concentration of azelaic acid helps “target acne, rosacea, and sun damage.” The dermatologist also notes the cream’s thin formula, which can be layered under your favorite moisturizer for an extra boost of hydration without feeling greasy.
Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial Brightening Mask
The Inkey List SuperSolutions 10% Azelaic Serum Redness Relief Solution
Drunk Elephant makes some of our favorite skin-care products, including the Bouncy Brightfacial Brightening Mask. In addition to azelaic and salicylic acids, the leave-on face mask is spiked with moisturizing glycerin and squalane, antimicrobial pumpkin seed oil, nourishing niacinamide, and barrier-strengthening ceramides.
Keep redness at bay with The Inkey List’s SuperSolutions 10% Azelaic Serum Redness Relief Solution. The azelaic acid-enriched serum — which has a light green hue to help mask redness — has a weightless gel-like texture that quickly absorbs into the skin. Other ingredient highlights include nourishing glycerin and moisturizing allantoin.
SkinFix Acne+ 2% BHA Cleanser
Peach Slices Redness Relief Azelaic Acid Serum
The Skinfix Acne+ 2% BHA + Azelaic Acid + Niacinamide + AHA Cleanser targets all forms of acne (fungal acne included). Its creamy gel formula features a gentle, albeit effective, combination of azelaic, salicylic, and glycolic acids. The addition of niacinamide helps reduce the appearance of pores.
Peach Slices is best known for its budget-friendly K-beauty skin-care staples. We especially love the company’s Redness Relief Azelaic Acid Serum, which combines 10 percent azelaic acid with skin-smoothing allantoin, moisturizing panthenol, and plant-based extracts like spinach and broccoli. The redness-banishing, green-hued serum also offers gentle exfoliation, making it an excellent choice for sensitive-skinned folks.
Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10%
Topicals Faded SerumFacile Brighten Targeted Pigment Serum
Naturium is an Asian-owned beauty brand that’s famous for its science-backed, results-driven skin-care products at wallet-friendly prices. The Azelaic Topical Acid 10% is especially noteworthy since it’s combined with vitamin C to help improve skin tone, as well as ultra-versatile ingredients like niacinamide and glycerin. The result? A bright, balanced, and even complexion.
Topicals’ concentrated Faded Serum combats stubborn dark spots, discoloration, and scars. Despite how lightweight it is, the azelaic acid cream packs a punch since it’s enriched with tranexamic acid (which can help reduce pigmentation), plus moisturizing ingredients like shea butter and jojoba seed oil. Rounding out the formula are skin-care staples like niacinamide, glycerin, and antioxidant-laden licorice root extract.
Additionally, while Allure contributor Jihan Forbes was pleased with her results after testing the serum, she’s also quick to mention its sulfur-like stench, which she said she doesn’t mind. “It makes me feel as if the product is really working as opposed to just looking pretty on a counter (though it does that, too),” she noted.
For brighter, smoother, and more even skin, we recommend reaching for the Facile Brighten Pigment Serum. Azelaic and tranexamic acid even out skin tone, while niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier and targets concerns like discoloration and redness. Aloe, a natural source of salicylic acid, also offers antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.